Check engine light flashing on 2002 Volkswagen New Beetle?

[DesireeF]

I have a 2002 Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0L with 142,000 miles. Just last week I had the timing belt and the catalytic converter replaced. For about a month now my car has had an issue with its idle. When I come to a stop sign, the idle drops down under 800 rpm and the car shudders. If I put the car in park and gently push the gas pedal, the shuddering stops, and there had been no problems while I was driving.

Today, though, I had been driving my car for no more than five minutes when it shuddered and the check engine light started blinking. I immediately pulled over and shut the car off. After two or three minutes, I turned the car back on. The light didn't come back on, and I drove the rest of the way home (about a mile) without any new issues.

I can't go to Autozone to get the code checked, because the light is not on. What could be causing my problem?

 

[RobertM]

YOU GOT D U P E D !!!!!! There was nothing wrong with your converter, but the CAUSE of the converter CLOGGING, namely your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE nad THROTTLE BODY! THe T body on VW car engines is VERY pricey, $700+, because it contain electronics in it that adjust fuel metering and give signals to TWO engine computers. Your VW requires ONLY special SYNTHETIC engine oil, or fumes get made that clog up the works!!! Take $20 to the local quicky lube, and have them clean out your THROTTLE BODY and IAC valve. YOu spent money on a CONVERTER FOR NOTHING!!! THe IAC will CAUSE a converter to clog up. The VW converter should NEVER go bad, only get clogged up. YOu did The WRONG thing by going to an Auto ZOne with this car, it is WAY to sophisticated for their abilities to work on it. THe VW/Audi dealership is the ONLY place you should go, unless there is a total FOREIGN car repair center around you, with the V.A.G. computer systems. The CHECK ENGINE Light is telling your that your FUEL MIXTURE is going off base! Once again, it CAUSES clogging of converter and clogging of O2 Sensor. Your BEETLE is VERY special, and capable of 400,000+ miles EASILY< but it starts by using ONLY the correct engine oil!!! ALL VW/Audi engine require SYNTHETIC oil only that meets the VW specification numbers 502/505. It needs changing once a year, that's ALL!!! Wrong oil begins to compromise engine sensors nearly IMMEDIATELY. Can you get a refund on your converter??? the ONLY reason to replace a VW converter is if the seals are TOTALLY rusted away, or if the insides have overheated to the point that the platinum matrix has broken and rattles like desert snakes. Other than that, they are TOTALLY cleanable!!! YOur engine has PISTON SQUIRTERS built into it, that wash down the piston wrist pins, keep the engine cool, and they require the SPECIAL SYnthetic oil to work correctly. PLEASE, get your T body cleaned up, and use the RIGHT oil only. Most VW troubles begin at the quicky lube, when they use Valvoline or other WAX based engine oil that FOULS up the engine! The factory fill is PENTOSIN from GERMANY. Mobil ONe 0W-40 is about the EASIEST oil to find. Have your CRANKCASE ventilation hoses checked for oil deterioration. This affects AIR/FUEL mixture. THe IAC is supposed to control the air/fuel mixture. I am rambling here, but the Air/Fuel mixture going RICH will make extra carbon that clogs up your converter and O2 sensor. NEVER trust anyone with your BEETLE that dose not know the product well. The AUTO ZONE is good for SOME things, but they are not prepared to have the VW diagnostic tools on hand! If eel bad for you having that converter replaced. ALSO< realize that ONLY genuine VW coolant can be used in that engine! if they put the GREEN stuff in there, they are IDIOTS< and perhaps did MORE things wrong to your car!!! VW coolant is either ROSE/Violet, or bright PINK< not ORANGE!!! I wish you were in MICHIGAN where I could get a good look at this thing, I think they may have ruined it a bit for you! You have THREE operating computers on board that require FLASHING to talk to each other correctly. There is a chance that your programming has been disturbed, and REQUIRES to be reset at the VW dealership. Try to understand THIS!!! Your "GAS" pedal is really the "AIR pedal" your foot only adds AIR to the injected fuel, and the fuel is METERED by the incoming air and injected elsewhere. A clean THROTTLE BODY is paramount to good running on these cars. Hardly anyone ever gets this one right, even many dealerships! Keep my E_mail handy! and keep me informed about this!