This is what I know so far. Your explanation needs to be somewhat simple. If Jerry Lewis could have a Poster Child for mechanical ability, I would be in the Top 10.
I pushed the gauge needle to half and to empty and turned ignition on, gas gauge always pegs past full. Numerous people have said the tank ground is bad. My mechanic said there is also a wire coming from under the dash that is bolted close to the emergency brake. I found that wire and reconnected it. No luck. Then I took the wire from the top of the tank that is bolted to the frame, cleaned the wire and wire brushed the frame. Gauge still pegged. First question is, and I know what ASSUME means, can I use any piece of metal (like a washer) and ground that wire to it OFF the frame to rule out the connector and frame? Am I right in assuming that if that does not work that it does not rule out the float in the tank and/or the sending unit? Better question: How do I do a resistance/continuity check of the sending unit with a digital voltmeter? Does that check NOT rule out the float in the tank being stuck?
Then I traced the wire from the sending unit along the frame and into the engine compartment where it attaches to a black box on the firewall with other wires. There are no worn spots in the insulation along the frame. I know I may have to do a continuity check on that wire too.
IF, lol, all the wiring and relays (?) are ok that brings me to the gauge itself. There are 3 connectors on the back of the gauge in the shape of a downward-pointing triangle as you look at it. The attach to posts and go wherever.. Second question: Is there a simple way to test the gauge itself Outside of the electrical system to rule it out? What are each of the connection posts for?? I have looked all over hell on the internet and cannot find that info. I am smart enough to know that I may not find that info cuz "someone" could lose money by explaining that.
Summary? Some of the gauges on the dash do work. The fasten seat belts light works, the speedometer works (that is just a cable on the tranny?), the temperature light works. The odometer works as does the trip odometer. The oil pressure and the gas gauge are always pegged past full before and after the ignition is turned on. I think I know enough to realize that all those gauges are separate systems requiring different checks? All the research I have done ASSUMES that the reader knows fuel system basics. I am not that far. Yet. LMAO, I do know enough to know that the "muffler bearings" are not causing the problem. I would really appreciate help along the lines of the KISS Principle...
I pushed the gauge needle to half and to empty and turned ignition on, gas gauge always pegs past full. Numerous people have said the tank ground is bad. My mechanic said there is also a wire coming from under the dash that is bolted close to the emergency brake. I found that wire and reconnected it. No luck. Then I took the wire from the top of the tank that is bolted to the frame, cleaned the wire and wire brushed the frame. Gauge still pegged. First question is, and I know what ASSUME means, can I use any piece of metal (like a washer) and ground that wire to it OFF the frame to rule out the connector and frame? Am I right in assuming that if that does not work that it does not rule out the float in the tank and/or the sending unit? Better question: How do I do a resistance/continuity check of the sending unit with a digital voltmeter? Does that check NOT rule out the float in the tank being stuck?
Then I traced the wire from the sending unit along the frame and into the engine compartment where it attaches to a black box on the firewall with other wires. There are no worn spots in the insulation along the frame. I know I may have to do a continuity check on that wire too.
IF, lol, all the wiring and relays (?) are ok that brings me to the gauge itself. There are 3 connectors on the back of the gauge in the shape of a downward-pointing triangle as you look at it. The attach to posts and go wherever.. Second question: Is there a simple way to test the gauge itself Outside of the electrical system to rule it out? What are each of the connection posts for?? I have looked all over hell on the internet and cannot find that info. I am smart enough to know that I may not find that info cuz "someone" could lose money by explaining that.
Summary? Some of the gauges on the dash do work. The fasten seat belts light works, the speedometer works (that is just a cable on the tranny?), the temperature light works. The odometer works as does the trip odometer. The oil pressure and the gas gauge are always pegged past full before and after the ignition is turned on. I think I know enough to realize that all those gauges are separate systems requiring different checks? All the research I have done ASSUMES that the reader knows fuel system basics. I am not that far. Yet. LMAO, I do know enough to know that the "muffler bearings" are not causing the problem. I would really appreciate help along the lines of the KISS Principle...