CVR's are not known to be significantly under-rated, or under-rated at all.
800w rms would be overkill, and you'd be at a point where damage due to overpowering would be very possible, if not likely.
500w and careful use? Sure.
600w? I wouldn't.
800? Not smart at all.
The amp will do any ONE of these.
Power 2 speakers.
Power 4 speakers.
Power 2 subs.
Your head unit should be capable of powering the 4 speakers, so I would suggest using the amp to power the subs.
If you need another amp to bring the output of the speakers up to match that of the subs you can...
You can't just stick a bluetooth dongle in there and expect the HU to recognize it.
BT dongle's for a computer have drivers so they're able to recognize and read what's coming in.
I would think there's some kind of adapter that has some sort of processor that reads the bluetooth data before...
Tacoma?
Looks like they have 70A alts regardless of which engine -- not much firepower for a good sized sound system.
1000w rms isn't huge, but with an alt like that you could have some issues.
If the alt turns out to be inadequate trying to solve it with a cap would be like bringing a match...
this got me thinking, so I pulled up a few different 6.5" manuals.
The fact is, they vary.
I found speakers classified as 6.5" with cutouts from 125mm to 158mm.
The best option will be a small mono that's 300-400w rms at 2 ohms.
Since it's a good quality sub I'd be inclined to lean more toward the 400w side.
Some good options...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22644_Clarion-XR2110.html...
There are MANY good head units that will work well - as in hundreds.
The "standards" in the industry would be Alpine and Pioneer. Kenwood, Clarion, JVC and a few others also offer good quality.
In general - features, quality etc are going to go hand in hand with the price tag. For $100 you...
The DC-AC differences really only effect the way the amp produces power.
What is delivered to the sub/speakers is essentially the same.
The main difference is home audio amps are usually meant to power higher impedance speakers than car audio amp.
A home amp will most often be specified for 8...
all a 4 ch kit gets you is an extra set of rca's. You can just buy rca's separately if you find a kit you like that only has one set.
The amp has three 25A fuses indicating it needs a little bit more current than a good 8 awg kit can provide so you're going to need a 4 awg kit.
Here's a nice...
you would severely stress the amp. It is not intended to run at 2 ohms when bridged. Heat would be excessive, and for any chance at getting the quality output that's expected you'd need to set both control sets the same - which is very difficult to do.
All things considered I think it would...
are you sure there wasn't a jumper wire somewhere from coil to coil?
There are two logical wiring options: http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg
and
http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/2_4ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif
Either way they'd...
I think the 220A alt + batt is a good approach.
250-290 is more than you'll need IMO.
Yes, 2400w is a lot of power, but it's important to recognize you'll only approach that level of power at extremely high volume, and even then only for short bursts of energy during high demand moments in...
Any electrical accessory running w/o the engine running will eventually run the battery dead, and as it's been clearly pointed out a capacitor will have no effect on that.
What is important to understand is it is the current draw of the accessory in question that will determine how long your...